London's best Irish eats

Richard Corrigan stands head and shoulders above the rest of London's Irish chefs
11 April 2012
The Weekender

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Looking for a grand place for a St Patrick's feast? From oysters, stew and champ at The O'Conor Don to the impressive cooking of Irish chef Richard Corrigan, we've found some top places in London to tuck into some good old Irish fare...

  • The O'Conor Don 88 Marylebone Lane, W1. Tel: 020-7935 9311The Ard-Ri Dining Room is situated upstairs at the O'Conor Don, but before you mount the stairs it is worth popping into the bar for a pint. The O'Conor Don is the ancient hereditary title of an Irish nobleman. Tables and chairs are traditional and in season there's an open fire. The menu steers a course between modernist dishes - beetroot-cured salmon with tzatziki isn't very Irish - and more straightforward Irish classics such as Cuan oysters, Irish stew and venison served with champ.
  • Richard Corrigan at the Lindsey House21 Romilly Street, W1. Tel: 020-7439 0450Richard Corrigan stands head and shoulders above the rest of London's Irish chefs and the Michelin Guide is suitably impressed by him. The restaurant is spread over several poky rooms and floors, which makes the slickness of the service even more impressive. This is not a cheap place but it does deliver a top-class dining experience. Ingredients are painstakingly sourced, and dishes combine rich flavours, such as sherry-marinated foie gras with a fig compote, or a roast haunch of venison with creamed sprouts and celeriac fondant. Offal dishes are something of a speciality. Save up, and go for the six-course tasting menu, which costs £56 per person.
  • The ToucanCarlisle Street, W1. Tel: 020-7437 4123 This small, rather dingy bar is occasionally so busy that food service is suspended because the waiters cannot get the plates through the crowds to the diners. It’s a Brit's vision of the perfect Irish bar and, as such, it has all the good points and few of the shortcomings of the real thing. Whatever its pedigree, The Toucan has spawned two other branches, and Londoners love them all. The menu is short, dishes are agreeably plain and prices are low. Start with a few Irish oysters, or some really good smoked salmon, then move on to Guinness pie or maybe Irish stew.
  • Mulligan's Of Mayfair13-14 Cork Street, W1. Tel: 020-7409 1370Mulligan's has kept the Irish tricolour flying even in this high-ticket corner of Mayfair. There are two bars, one at ground level and one below stairs, and they both serve food. The dishes on offer make the most of some excellent Irish ingredients. You may find a starter that teams black and white puddings or try Irish smoked salmon with a potato pancake and sour cream. Oysters come from Strangford Lough and are served with fresh soda bread and shallot vinaigrette. As well as Mulligan's Irish stew, served with red cabbage, main course choices may include boiled bacon with Colcannon potatoes and parsley sauce, or braised beef and Guinness pie. There is even a Guinness rarebit.

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