Clodagh McKenna's guide on what to see, eat and drink in West Cork

Our weekly recipe columnist tells you how to experience this part of the Emerald Isle in style 
Clodagh McKenna
Clodagh McKenna18 May 2018

Planning a trip to Ireland? Why not focus on West Cork?

Here, Irish chef and Evening Standard's weekly recipe columnist, Clodagh McKenna, reveals where to eat, sleep, drink and what to do in this stunning corner of the world...

Sleep

Blairscove House in Durrus, West Cork, is a beautifully restored Georgian House with lovely cottages where you can choose from the option of self-catering or B&B. It’s situated alongside the stunning Sheep's Head peninsula.

Eat

The Island Cottage on Heir Island is a magical place to go for dinner, the whole experience is so unique. The last time I was here was with Chef Alice Waters (Chez Panisse restaurant) to celebrate her birthday. The restaurant sits 22 people and serves a set menu dinner and lunch using the best local and island-foraged ingredients. To get to the restaurant, it’s a short and fun, four minute ferry trip from Cunnamore Pier. The Island Cottage also has a cookery school, where guests can enroll on courses that last a morning, one day, two days or a week. Attendees of the cookery school are also able to stay on site at The Cottage.

One of my favourite restaurants in West Cork is Mews in Baltimore. It’s set in a small stone building in one of my favourite sea side towns. The seafood served here comes from the fishing boats in front of the restaurant, while the meat is sourced from local farmers and hunters, fruit and veg from market-gardeners, and wild ingredients foraged in the surrounding countryside. So, as you can imagine, the menu changes daily.

Drink

Hackett’s Bar in Schull is a traditional Irish pub serving delicious, locally-produced food. Like a lot of pubs in Ireland, it’s been there since the 1920s and hasn’t changed that much. Not to be missed is their crab salad with aioli and soda bread. They also play great live music in the evening.

O'Sullivan's Pub in Crookhaven is the best place to enjoy a creamy pint of Guinness and a pint of fresh prawn’s with a beautiful view of the sea and Crookhaven harbour. Depending on the weather, you can sit inside next to the cosy fire or on one of the outdoor tables next to the water and soak up the spectacular views.

See

If you want to find everything from pheasant eggs to hand-woven willow baskets to delicious free range pork then head to Skibbereen Farmer’s Market. When you’re there make sure you visit the Gubbeen Farm stall and pick-up their award-winning cheese and charcuterie. There are also lots of stands selling delicious ready-to-eat food so make sure to plan this visit around lunchtime.

Culture Fix

Without a doubt, one of the best ways to experience Irish culture is to see live music. Connolly’s of Leap is a cult music venue and bar where artists from all over the world come to play. They have performances every night of the week, from traditional Irish music to Drum ‘n’ Bass.

Getting There

You can get a flight on Aer Lingus or Ryan Air to Cork Airport from all London Airports. It’s pretty crucial to rent a car while you’re there because that’s the best way to travel around West Cork.

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