The discerning drinker: Riesling

Riesling is the white grape that divides wine lovers. Its defenders, such as wine writer Hugh Johnson, praise its precision and balance, above all in its German homeland.

Others remain to be convinced. As Johnson concedes in the 2012 edition of his indispensable Pocket Wine Guide (published next week by Mitchell Beazley, £11.99), "I have been calling for a Riesling Renaissance for nearly half my life - and I'm getting on a bit."

In some German regions more than half the riesling produced is now dry, rather than the sweeter styles that once predominated. But there are other places where it is almost always dry and, for me, easier to love.

Cave de Turckheim Riesling 2009, Alsace (Majestic, £7.99 or £6.99 each when you buy two bottles) Just about as reasonably priced a riesling as you'll find anywhere, from one of Alsace's leading co-operatives. Pretty straightforward, in a modern style, lime fruit balanced by appealing floral notes.

Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2009 (Tesco, £10.29) South Australia's Clare Valley is the nation's undisputed riesling capital. This wine is a fine example of the classic style, showing off clean, juicy lime fruit.

Felton Road Dry Riesling 2010, Central Otago (Wine Direct, mail order from winedirect.co.uk, £14.50; Uncorked, 3 Exchange Arcade, Broadgate, EC2, £16.29) New Zealand has been planting riesling steadily in recent years. This is not unlike a Clare Valley riesling in style: fresh, pure, zesty and bone dry.

Domaine Paul Zinck Riesling 2007, Eichberg Grand Cru (Waitrose, £14.99) Despite being just 12.5 per cent alcohol and both crisp and fresh, there's serious weight to this, with complex mineral and lime flavours and good length. Grand Cru wines are not cheap: this is good value.