Will the dress save M&S? We take a first look at Marks & Spencer's new focus

The chain is fighting back with one-hit-wonder dressing. Here is what’s in store for spring
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Karen Dacre16 November 2016

Most bad days can’t be made good by an item of clothing but they can be bettered. This is based on the instinct that we reach for oversized jumpers when we’re feeling blue and cling to the reliable unremarkables in our wardrobes on the days when standing out is more than we can bear.

When enduring its own times of turmoil, M&S has its own methods of comfort. During the winter months, this is outerwear - few things are more soothing to faltering financial figures than a sumptuous new coat to get its customers in a tizzy - while in summer, the store considers dresses to be its lifejacket.

This week, with M&S fans still reeling from the news that the store is to slash the space it devotes to clothing by converting 45 of its stores into food-only shops and shutting 30 more, it seems far from surprising that the brand should unveil a spring/summer collection that’s laden with precisely those.

Not only are dresses among the store’s most financially fruitful clothing categories, with 1.8 million sold each year, they are also increasingly popular among M&S’s broad demographic as more and more women look to one-piece dressing as a way to simplify their busy lives.

Accordingly, the dress plays a starring role in next season’s offering. Among the stand-outs is a ruffle-sleeve style in deep magenta and a breezy lemon smock, both of which were designed to speak to those M&S shoppers who requested more colour from their favourite high-street chain.

Keen to nod to current trends without offering so many that the less risky fashion consumer feels overwhelmed among its rails, the chain is offering its own take on the breezy floral frocks favoured by cult label Vetements. It also makes a nod to the continuing trend for pared-back minimalism with a navy contrast-stitch dress that features practical pockets - the holy grail for M&S shoppers - as well as timely exposed shoulders.

At the heart of this dress-heavy offering is a renewed focus for natural fabrics - following focus groups with its customers, the store is keen to offer more and more of its key pieces in fabrics such as soft cotton and tactile linen - as well as the idea that its fans feel more comfortable shopping by occasion or category than by fashion theme.

Accordingly, an edit of occasionwear items - again, mostly dresses - will be merchandised together when they arrive on the shopfloor next year, meaning customers heading for a summer wedding can head there directly to locate one of the store’s long Victoriana lace gowns or an empire-line metallic party dress.

The million-pound question, of course, is will next season’s frocks be incentive enough to tempt shoppers? Certainly, M&S couldn’t have picked a better time to reawaken us to the dress and its charms.

With more and more women on the hunt for quick-fix solutions when updating their wardrobes, the decision to speak to broad demographic with a dress for everyone could be the most sensible card the chain has played in some seasons. Time will tell if it pays off.

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