This being awards season, rare is the designer who doesn't turn his hand to a red carpet evening gown or three in the hope of capturing the attention— and patronage — of one of the bright young things who can bring so much positive publicity to a brand.
Christopher Bailey is that rarity. His latest collection for Burberry was utterly gown-free, the focus instead on coats, coats and more coats.
Even the final exit was a coat, albeit a very fancy one in three different piles of shearling, from long-haired to curly to shaved.
Coats are at Burberry's very core, and Bailey's latest collection was an example of brand consolidation at its sharpest. The classic Burberry trench was reworked in heavy cotton canvas, although this was the least exciting element of the collection, as every permutation of coat known to womankind took its turn on the catwalk, each more lavish than the last.
An aviator jacket in marbled brown leather, its collars a lush cream shearling? Yes, please. A sage green woollen military jacket, cuffs and epaulettes blinging with gold buttons? Pass me my credit card. A khaki bonded cotton parka, edged in fluffy white fleece? Hold me while I swoon. As a contrast to the heavy coat fabrics — felted wool and washed gabardine — the models wore wispier garments underneath. Among the front row stars were Kate Hudson, Kristen Stewart, and Clare Danes.
