Agi & Sam subvert traditional gender roles in show not without a sense of humour at London Collections Men

The design duo also chose next year's collection to expand their womenswear offering
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Emma McCarthy11 June 2016

Much of London's menswear scene is focused on establishing how the modern man wants to dress.

For Agi & Sam - a young design duo who have been investigating this concept since their inception in 2010 - this means looking to the changing ideas of masculinity to inform their own unique brand of contemporary tailoring.

Heading up the bill on the second day of the capital's menswear showcase, the pair sought to subvert traditional gender roles with the inclusion of windowpane check print house coats and acid floral table cloth fabrics cut into informal suits, alongside workman's jackets and razor cut trousers.

The work of Norwegian artist Nikolai Astrup, whose niche is painting traditional family home landscapes, provided further inspiration for the collection which was both nostalgic and forward thinking.

Reuters/Neil Hall

Alpha male roles were still felt in the inclusion of military flight jackets and 90's sportswear, while the addition of leather marigold gloves hinted at the more modern career of house husband.

Keen to be as democratic with their potential market as they are their ideas, the design duo also chose next year's collection to expand their womenswear offering with a series of smock coats and pleated skirts.

But while their spring showcase was a thoughtful exploration of machismo, it was not without a sense of humour.

A t-shirt printed with a portrait of Del Boy raised a smile from those in the audience, while cameo brooches and checked headscarves could have served as a nod to HRH during her official birthday celebrations today.

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