Solange Knowles' manicurist on why we need to switch to nail products free from nasty toxins

Ama Quashie is the nail buff putting the polish on a green fingered revolution
Ama Nails
Emma McCarthy19 November 2018

The green revolution has consumed our fridges, cleaned up our bathroom cabinets and invaded our Instagram feeds.

But have you ever given a second thought to your nails? If the extent of your consideration surrounding selecting a polish begins and ends with “Will this shade suit my lipstick?”, it might be time to take a closer look at those brightly coloured bottles.

As more and more consumers demand transparency from their products, an increasing number of brands are switching out the toxins in favour of safer solutions. For nails, the worst offenders are formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate. And while these — otherwise known as the Big Three or Toxic Trio — have all but disappeared from the majority of modern formulations, many brands are now going a step further. With studies revealing that chemicals in polish can be absorbed by the body in just 14 hours, non-toxic nail varnishes are on the rise, with some formulations eradicating up to 13 of the most commonplace chemicals.

Ama nails salon
Ama nails salon

At the forefront of this movement is Ama Quashie, session manicurist to stars including Adele and Solange Knowles, and whose work regularly features in Vogue. Tomorrow, Quashie is opening her first salon, together with her school friend Latoyah Lovatt, just a stone’s throw away from where they grew up in Brixton.

The concept is simple — to accentuate the beauty of natural nails. Along with a blanket ban on acrylic extensions or hard-gel treatments, the salon will also offer a free-from menu that lets customers choose from a selection of polish and gel brands that are up to “10-Free” and 90 per cent natural, as well as being vegan-friendly and cruelty-free.

“It’s not about shaming people into having made the wrong decisions to date,” explains Quashie, who adds that throughout her teens acrylics were her go-to when visiting a local nail bar in Streatham. “I wanted to bring another option to the table and these free-from formulas are finally on a par with household nail brands.”

Among her polishes of choice are NCLA’s 7-Free, 21-day gel lacquers, and Kure Bazaar, a 10-Free varnish that has long been a staple in her kit. “I’ve been so impressed with the innovation allowing an eco-natural formula to apply so well. Colour range is also extremely important to me, given my fashion background, and Kure comes in more than 60 shades.”

At Nicholas Kirkwood’s London Fashion Week show in September, Quashie used Kure to create a series of high-gloss, metallic finishes designed to complement the label’s intergalactic theme — a trend she predicts will be big in salons this party season too. “I like the versatility of metallics. Last year I was obsessed with copper; this year I’m loving a sheer rose metallic for a slightly understated festive look.” She also name-checks minimalist nail art and winter neon — a favourite with Solange — among her current top tips.

But while she’s keen to stress that you don’t have to ditch creativity along with the chemicals, she’s also an ambassador for natural nails in all their naked glory. “Natural nails are what I’m best known for now,” she says. “One of my favourite looks is a good manicure with a clear base, and I went through a full year with just clear soft gel. With a bit of focus on nail care, people can learn to love their natural nails — even after years of extensions.”

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