Top 5 bargain Soho eats

Children eat for free at Bodeans at weekends

Soho may not be renowned for having a wealth of choices when it comes to great restaurants but there is the odd gem to be found, and at very reasonable prices too. Fay Maschler tightens her belt with her top five bargain eats in W1...

  • Pollo 20 Old Compton Street, W1 (020 7734 5917) £16.Like Centrale restaurant in nearby Moor Street, Pollo is a long established comfort station for filling up on pastas of all shapes and sizes, drinking inexpensively (house wine is £7.45) and having a jolly time squashed into one of the booths. There are pizzas and antipasto, but the best bet is something sinuous in a sauce.
  • Bodeans10 Poland Street, W1 (020 7287 7575) £30. Baby back ribs, spare ribs and fries appeal to the inner child and if you have an outer child in tow, he or she (one per adult) can eat free on weekends up to 5pm. The dowdily decorated basement delivers a more than usually authentic take on Americana, not omitting details like pally service and blues on the sound system.
  • Jimmy's23 Frith Street, W1 (020 7437 9521) £17. The Christodoulou family has been running this Greek-Cypriot bargain basement since 1948. Anyone needing feeding inexpensively will delight in the houmus and taramasalata to start, kleftiko, afelia, souvlakia and the like to follow, all generously served. Lamb's liver, chips and salad was a staple of my student days. Greek gods pictured look on; sybaritism on the cheap.
  • Andrew Edmunds 46 Lexington Street, W1 (020 7437 5708) £35. One of the few places in London that resembles the romantic bistro you always hope to find in Paris. Andrew Edmunds, who sells prints in another 18th century shop next door, has a loyal following for the robust, imaginative food and also wines bought at auction which are not marked-up rapaciously - bargains, in fact.
Chowki
2-3 Denman Street, W1 (020 7439 1330) £24.

Note: prices estimate the cost of a meal with wine for one.

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