Terrace culture at Orrery

This review was published in July 2001

Sometimes hot weather can muffle the appetite. A full meal seems too calorific in every sense. The chance to eat lightly is now offered on the terrace above THE ORRERY in Marylebone High Street. Although when I rang to book, the woman who answered was adamant that not only could you not book but nor could you eat there - you can, but you must take a chance on finding a table free.

A short menu is served from 7pm in the bar and on the terrace, an ideal perch, sheltered by a canopy, with a view of the gardening department of the Conran shop on one side, the tops of trees on the other. The hum of traffic is muted, occasionally drowned out by the striking of the St Marylebone parish church clock. The advantages of the proximity of a Michelin-starred restaurant designed by Conran are stylish accoutrements such as linen napkins and fine, wine-enhancing glassware but most importantly the expertise of chef Chris Galvin's kitchen.

An asparagus-and-herb risotto was faultless, as you might hope it would be at £14.50. Similarly the ballotine of foie gras with Sauternes gel?e and grilled Poilane bread was classic stuff. Fruity flavours can be found in dessert sorbets or in the specially concocted summery cocktails such as Florida Trip, The Vicarage, Sweet Harmony and Tropical Itch. I'll leave you to discover the ingredients. We stayed with a bottle of Nicolas Joly Savenni?res, headily redolent of its terroir.

Orrery
55 Marylebone High Street, W1 3AE