Martini not on the rocks

10 April 2012

This is a lot more bar than grill, especially on a Friday night, when thumping music and a pack of barely-legal drinkers take it a long way from any fine dining ideal. Accordingly, the food is strictly from the All Bar One school of cuisine: stomach-fillers for tipsy merrymakers.

The quesadillas were fine, served with spicy salsa, but the salad nicoise was all tuna and no greenery, with a strong and inappropriate flavouring of butter. Jerk chicken was low on spices and burnt, as was the sausage in the otherwise acceptable sausage and mash.

Still, the chocolate brownies were so good they made a blessing of inadequate savoury courses: our residual hunger went to a good home. Three courses (no wine) came to £54.

The place is perkily decorated with 1970s-style striped upholstery, and the drinks are obviously where it really sparkles: at £4.50, a gin and tonic is reasonably priced, and the measures are positively bountiful; the wine list is extensive and, although we didn't try the martinis, I suspect this place would be well-named, if they would just take the Grill out - in both senses.

The Martini Grill
308 North End Road, SW6 1NQ

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