London's most influential chefs get inspired by the capital

Ten top chefs including Marcus Wareing and Michel Roux Jr create London-inspired dishes
Marcus Wareing's Tredwell's in Covent Garden
Tredwell's
Adam Coghlan28 September 2015

Ten of London’s most influential chefs have created one-off menus inspired by the capital, exclusively for American Express Cardmembers.

Here they reveal what their London-inspired menus are, where they like to eat in the city, and their favourite capital hotspots.

Marcus Wareing: "London is different to how it was when I started."
Marcus Wareing

Marcus Wareing, Tredwell’s

Marcus's Tip: Read recipes properly and follow them.

Wareing began his career at Southport catering college before moving to the Savoy in London in 1988 where he met Albert Roux. Albert was the first chef I watched on TV when I was 14 and is still someone I turn to. He is a mentor to many and the Godfather of cookery. London is different to how it was when I started. There is an open dialogue these days. It’s an evolving melting pot of new ideas and there is such high demand. It’s great to be part of a new wave that has made London the number one eating city in the world. This means we also attract the very best chefs.

Most admired?

It is amazing what Heston Blumenthal has done here and all over the world. There is no one else like him.

London inspiration:

Skyline. The buildings keep going up and pushing boundaries. I love the additions to the South Bank and around St Paul’s.

Next generation of chefs:

They get younger and better and I am very lucky to have an incredible team around me. I love the way they think and the ideas they bring to the table.

Where Marcus eats:

1. Bayley and Sage, New King’s Road.

2. Chez Bruce, Wandsworth.

3. Tredwell’s, St Martin’s Lane – naturally.

4. Dishoom, various branches.

5. Pierre Hermé for macarons in Belgravia.

Best London meal this year:

The picnic my wife Jane and I made recently for my son’s last day of school.

Inspired dish:

Sea bass, carrots, cashew and coriander, grilled courgettes, hazelnut butter and truffled potato croquettes.

Mark Hix, Hix City

Mark's Tip: Don’t put too many ingredients on the plate.

“London has changed enormously since I moved here from Dorset 30 years ago,” says Hix cheerily. “You can eat almost anything from any part of the world at any time of day.” Mark Hix is a mainstay of the restaurant industry who has ridden the trends over the past two decades thanks to an aversion to frippery and froth. “New York is the city that never sleeps and London is the city that never settles,” he adds. “People say it’s now the gastronomic capital of the world and they may well be right!”

Most admired?

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King [The Wolseley, The Delaunay etc.], Giorgio Locatelli, Alastair Little, Simon Hopkinson and the Hart brothers [Barrafina].

London inspiration:

Art. I always include artists I know in the visual aspect of my restaurants. Hanging out in the East End at young gallery openings and parties got me into the sphere of visual art. I would host after-show dinners in exchange for work. My collection now includes Tracey Emin and Damien Hirst, who are kind of rock stars, but we also have pieces by Antony Gormley, Harland Miller, Michael Landy and Polly Morgan.

Where Mark eats:

1. The Golden Heart, Spitalfields.

2. The Groucho Club, Dean Street.

3. Shackfuyu, Old Compton Street.

4. Gymkhana, Albemarle Street.

5. BAO, Lexington Street.

Best London meal this year:

Shackfuyu.

Inspired dish:

Steak, ale and oyster pie.

Hélène Darroze: Alain Ducasse first noticed my passion.

Hélène Darroze, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught

Hélène's Tip: I cook with my heart and soul.

“London has more international food offerings than anywhere,” says the two-starred Parisian. “There have been huge changes in London in the six years since I arrived, mainly chefs making excellent ingredients the star of the show.” Darroze is a fourth-generation cook but it was Alain Ducasse who first recognised her potential. “I suppose he noticed my passion, taste and seriousness,” she says. “He taught me to respect producers, as well as products, and to respect taste and simplicity.”

Most admired:

The fantastic female chefs who are finally getting limelight: Anna Hansen, Thomasina Miers, Clare Smyth, Angela Hartnett, Skye Gyngell and Florence Knight.

London inspiration:

Exhibitions. I found Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty so inspiring. I love fashion and take inspiration from trends. Paris was always the capital of fashion but now London is leading the way.

Food markets:

London has so many wonderful food markets: Borough, Berwick Street and Maltby Street. Brindisa is a favourite of mine at Borough. I love going early on a Saturday and coming home with bags of Padrón peppers, Ortiz tuna, Piquillo peppers from Lodosa, the best bellota jamón and manchego cheese.

Where Helene eats:

1. The Clove Club, Old Street.

2. Fera, Claridge’s, Brook Street.

3. Café Murano, St James’s Street.

4. Roka, Charlotte Street or Umu, Bruton Place for Japanese.

5. Cocktails at the Connaught Bar, Carlos Place.

Best London meal this year:

Without a doubt, The Clove Club this year. Isaac McHale introduced me to haggis – and I loved it! The best meal I can ever remember having in London was at Umu.

Inspired dish:

Coco bean, clams, razor clams, “ttoro”.

Tomos Parry: "London embraces diversity."
Adrian Lourie

Tomos Parry, Kitty Fisher’s

Tomos' Tip: Keep it simple.

Tomos Parry is a beneficiary of the new London restaurant industry: “Things have changed a lot here, particularly the attitude to fine dining. No more is it French cuisine served in stiff, stale rooms. Always cosmopolitan, London embraces diversity,” he adds, “which has given chefs confidence to create individual styles and excel.” Not only are chefs freer to cook whatever they want (and be appreciated fairly for it), “people’s attitude to eating out has changed – in part thanks to TV and social media – and they’re spending more in restaurants, which is helping the industry thrive. Critically, chefs now see themselves more as friends, behaving less competitively.”

Most admired:

Ruth Rogers, Nigel Platts Martin, Corbin and King.

London inspiration:

Pace and multiculturalism. Having moved from the north, I’m inspired by the fast pace and energy. It helps me to be constantly creative and not get complacent. I love the multiculturalism – I relish being a part of such a mix of people, and having so many passionate contemporaries.

Where Tomos eats:

1. Smoking Goat, Denmark Street, for fiery Thai.

2. Pitt Cue Co., Newburgh Street, for Tom Adams’ amazing barbecue.

3. Cock Tavern, Mare Street, for real ales and pork scratchings.

4. Climpson’s Arch, Helmsley Place. Current pop-up is Som Saa - incredible regional Thai.

5. Towpath Café, Regent’s Canal, Hackney, which is near my home and great for coffee brunch.

Best London meal this year:

Fera at Claridge’s. The best ever was either River Café or Dave Pynt’s Burnt Enz pop-up at Climpson’s Arch.

Inspired dish:

Rib eye of Galician dairy cow, girolles, black cabbage and pickled walnut.

Philip Howard: I’m disillusioned by modern cheffy geekery.
Philip Howard

Philip Howard, The Square

Philip's Tip: Sharp knives give even sharper results.

Optimistic about an industry in rude health, Philip Howard says, “This is a great time. You can get a great curry or a phenomenal burger – things that are just delicious and great value. I always simply ask myself, ‘Am I having a good time?’ I’m disillusioned by the modern cheffy geekery and overthought, under-loved food. From immaculate dim sum or beautiful pulled pork, food can deliver so much pleasure. In London now, a place so much more accessible for young chefs, the midmarket is where it’s at, where everyone can go.”

Most admired:

Probably Marco Pierre White.

London inspiration:

Fulham Palace Gardens. The former residence of the Bishop of London is where we now source the vast majority of our vegetables and some fruit. The walled garden was ruined but, with Heritage Lottery funding, we have worked together to plant trees and seeds, which now produce incredible ingredients for us. My wife comes into the restaurant twice a week with phenomenal produce.

Where Philip eats:

1. Zucca, Bermondsey Street. As far as restaurants go, you don’t need anything more.

2. Pitt Cue Co., for a lovely bit of pulled pork.

3. Tsukiji Sushi, Conduit Street. I go there more than anywhere, usually when my son’s in town.

4. River Café, Thames Wharf, delivers great pleasure, the service is outstanding and the front-of-house exceptional.

5. Workshop Coffee Co., various branches: I’m not a connoisseur but love how meticulous they are.

Best London meal this year:

Zucca. The best meal ever was at Harvey’s – Marco Pierre White.

Inspired dish:

Tartare of smoked fallow deer with juniper, salt-baked celeriac and pine.

Pierre Koffmann: Peaceful green spaces within London are unique.
Pierre Koffmann

Pierre Koffmann, Koffmann’s at the Berkeley

Pierre's Tip: The difference between good and bad food is simply a pinch of salt.

Pierre Koffmann started at Le Gavroche – a place that, under the Roux brothers, changed the restaurant industry in London. “It is these two that I most admire,” he says, emphatically. “Dining in London has changed a huge amount, from having some of the poorest cooking in Europe to being equal to the very best destinations in the world, like Paris, San Sebastián and New York.”

Most admired:

Roux Brothers.

London inspiration:

The Parks. Peaceful green spaces within London are unique – not many capitals have parks big enough to feel secluded and escape the vibrancy. In London there is space to contemplate. For those who work in busy restaurants this is key.

British comedy:

I love the British sense of humour which reminds me not to take myself too seriously.

Where Pierre eats:

1. La Petite Maison, Brook’s Mews.

2. Brasserie Chavot, Conduit Street.

3. Workshop Co ee Co., branches.

4. A Wong for dim sum, Wilton Road.

5. Rivea, Alain Ducasse at the Bulgari Hotel.

Best London meal this year:

Fera at Claridge’s. The best meal ever was in 1972 at Daniel Dunas’ restaurant at The Connaught with 10 friends. I was in my early twenties. It has always stayed with me, everything was sensational.

Inspired dish:

Beef Wellington.

Michel Roux Jr.: "I grew up learning from my father."
Sky Moore-Clube

Michel Roux Jr., Roux at the Landau

Michel's Tip: Cook eggs from room temperature. Not from the fridge.

Cooking has always been at the centre of Michel’s world. “I was nearly born in a kitchen and always in and around one as a child,” he reveals. “I grew up learning from my father (Albert Roux) and he is my mentor.” He also bows to the influence of his mother, who was “an absolutely fantastic cook”. “The enthusiasm Londoners have for dining has always been there, but it’s their open-mindedness that has evolved and made this city one of the best places in the world to dine.”

Most admired:

Young chefs should look no further than Robin Gill and Dan Joines at The Dairy in Clapham.

London inspiration:

Diversity and competition. London’s vibrant restaurant scene is truly inspiring and the bar is always being raised. It is the only city where you can experience cuisines, techniques and flavours from all over the world at a high standard.

The skyline. The silhouette of the city is ever-changing, mixing classical with modern – like my cooking.

Where Michel eats:

1. Zuma, Raphael Street.

2. Fung Shing, Lisle Street.

3. Chez Bruce, Wandsworth.

4. The Manor, Clapham Manor Street.

5. The Windmill, Clapham Common.

Best London meal this year:

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. The best meal ever was at La Tante Claire, Pierre Koffmann’s restaurant on Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea. He had three Michelin stars within six years of opening.

Inspired dish:

Queen of puddings.

Jeremy Lee: I always change my route to work to stop for breakfast.

Jeremy Lee, Quo Vadis

Jeremy's Tip. Always use the knife with the keenest blade.

Jeremy Lee was at the epicentre of the seismic shift in London restaurants that took place in the late 1980s and early 1990s with Alistair Little at 192, Simon Hopkinson and Rowley Leigh at Kensington Place – “the best brasserie London ever did” – and Nick Lander’s L’Escargot. Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver’s St John in Clerkenwell represented the culmination of this shift, and a new, ingredient-led template for London restaurants had been set. Terence Conran’s Bibendum in Michelin House was similarly influential: “I was in the kitchen cooking with Bruce Poole (now Chez Bruce) and Phil Howard (now The Square). It was an amazing time to cut our teeth. They were the first to break down barriers of French grandeur – with a cleaner, brighter approach to interiors and menus.”

Most admired:

Jonathan Jones of the Anchor & Hope and James Lowe at Lyle’s are the best exponents of Henderson’s food. They represent the next stage in the progression from the pioneering spirits that I worked with.

London inspiration:

Cycling and train stations. I always change my route to work to stop for breakfast and explore. I also look to the train stations and the way everything used to come into London – it’s the reason we have our markets where they are.

River Thames and the Parks. The spice wharfs and the extraordinary excesses of the late Victorians and Edwardians, as well as London’s parks that allow us to gather for extraordinary picnics.

Where Jeremy eats:

1. St John, St John Street.

2. The French House, Dean Street.

3. Bar Termini, Old Compton Street, for knock-out coffee and drinks.

4. BAO, Lexington Street, the best of all Asian offerings.

5. TFC, the supermarket on Ridley Road in Dalston. And Spa Terminus in Bermondsey.

Best London meal this year:

Summer’s lunch at River Café, a pie at St John, everything at BAO, dancing between three Barrafina restaurants, the Clove Club and the Anchor & Hope. Best ever was with Fergus Henderson or Simon Hopkinson for truffles, bone marrow, langoustines and much more in those lunches.

Inspired dish:

Wild duck salad.

Karem Sethi: My beat meal ever was at The Wolseley.
Karem Sethi

Karam Sethi, Gymkhana

Karam's Tip: Cook with Andaza (translates as: eyeballing your cooking).

Karam Sethi is one of London’s greatest recent success stories. After winning a Michelin star for his neighbourhood restaurant Trishna in 2012, he opened Gymkhana on Albemarle Street – regarded by most as the best Indian restaurant in the UK. “London must be the only city in the world that you can enjoy such variety and quality in one day and on a budget – the best eating city in the world.” He notes that the stalwarts of London’s restaurant scene are as vital as the hip. “When I visited The Ivy recently the service, atmosphere and food were faultless.” He also admires Soho House who “consistently offer great service and atmosphere.” So what’s next? “We’re opening Hoppers in Soho in October and are excited to introduce Tamilian food culture to London. The restaurant will be fast paced and bold on flavour.”

London inspiration:

Eating Out. I dine out 3-5 times a week and am always paying attention to see what makes a good restaurant. The restaurant industry is always evolving, so you have to keep up to date.

Family. Our lives always revolved around doing things as a family and eating as a family and they still do.

Most admired:

James Lowe (Lyle’s); Shing-Tat, Wai-Ting Chung and Erchen Chang (BAO); James Knappett (Bubbledogs)...

Where Karam eats:

1. Roka, Charlotte Street, for Japanese.

2. Barrafina, Frith Street, for tapas.

3. La Petite Maison, Brook’s Mews.

4. La Fromagerie Café, Moxon Street.

5. Princi – the buzzing open-late patisserie on Wardour Street, Soho.

Best London meal this year:

Kitty Fisher’s. Best ever was The Wolseley – for the diversity of people and cultures in the restaurant.

Inspired dish:

Kasoori chicken tikka, sprouting moong kachumber.

Nathan Outlaw: The fish ’n’ chips are always so much better in London.
David Griffin

Nathan Outlaw, Outlaw’s at The Capital

Tip: When cooking seafood always remember the seafood is the star.

Nathan Outlaw’s guiding principle is simple: get the best fresh seafood and cook it confidently. There is no hiding place for poor ingredients. “If I can’t get the best, then I don’t put it on the menu.” Ninety per cent of the fish in his London restaurant (The Capital in Knightsbridge) comes from Cornwall. This is not surprising given Outlaw’s flagship restaurant, the two-Michelin-starred Outlaw’s, is at the St Enedoc Hotel in Rock, and he has also recently opened another in Port Issac.

London inspiration:

River Thames. “As a kid I remember coming to London for jellied eel, parsley liquor and mash, so the River Thames definitely inspires.”

Gin. “London is famous for its gin and I use it in my cooking as a cure – no other gin works as well.”

Fish’n’chips. “Even though I’m from Cornwall, the fish ’n’ chips are always so much better in London. There was a celebratory banquet to commemorate the launch of Henry VIII’s first maritime naval fleet, at which the Deptford Pudding was served. I managed to dig out an old recipe and have tinkered with it for the final course for our Inspired by London dinner.”

Where Nathan eats:

1. Lyle’s, James Lowe’s restaurant in Shoreditch High Street

2. Pitt Cue Co., Newburgh Street. Tom Adams is the best meat cook in London, he verges on genius

3. Barrafina, Frith Street. I always go because it’s so much fun

4. Hawksmoor, various branches. My kids love it!

5. Bar Boulud, Knightsbridge, round the corner from The Capital

Best London meal this year:

Pitt Cue Co. in Soho, best meat cookery in the UK. Best meal ever was at Coast when Stephen Terry was cooking, in 1997. I can still remember it.

Inspired dish:

Smoked eel and mash fritters with herb mayonnaise.

Highlights from the London Restaurant Festival

1/10

Inspired by London is a series of dinners created exclusively for American Express Cardmembers during London Restaurant Festival. For more details of events open to everyone please visit londonrestaurantfestival.com/amex Inspired by London Inspired by London London must be the only city in the world that you can enjoy such variety and quality in one day and on a budget londonrestaurantfestival.com

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