Five to try: Off-peak or off-piste

IKEDA
30 Brook Street, W1 (020 7629 2730) £28 (lunch).
In no other cuisine is the price gap between lunch and dinner so marked as in Japanese restaurants. This long-established, family-owned restaurant is praised by those in the know. Sit at the counter and understand the Zen of slicing and of pot washing.

SCOTT'S OYSTER BAR
20 Mount Street, W1 (020 7495 7309) £30.
Chatter about Scott's frequently centres on who rather than what is on the menu, but with the recent return of the natives it is time to book a seat at the Oyster Bar. Choose from as many as six varieties of rocks and natives or just have a main course like deep-fried haddock with mushy peas for £17.50.

SONNY'S
94 Church Road, SW13 (020 8 748 0393) £28.
A revamp at this trusted local restaurant includes a welcoming new bar area with an enterprising menu. Foie gras schnitzel with fried quails egg is a rich, small plate for £7.50. Large plates include No-Carb Benedict (£6.50) and salt beef hash with poached duck egg (£12.50). Wines from £11.95; drinking in the well-chosen art is free.

*Prices estimate a set-price or bar meal with wine for one.