Fay Maschler reviews Daffodil Mulligan: Arms waving, eyes flashing, Corrigan leads Irish trio to success in the city

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Fay Maschler4 December 2019

“I am bright, hale and hearty, the life of the party. I’m Daffy the belle of the Coombe. Fresh fish!” So go some of the words of the music hall ditty Daffodil Mulligan — listen to it sung by Dublin folk group Lankum — which provide inspiration for this restaurant brought alive, alive-o by a trio of Irish fellas.

Richard Corrigan, John Nugent and Tony Gibney have taken over what was Nuala near Old Street roundabout. It is not the first Mulligan in Corrigan’s cooking life. That was when he was head chef of the eponymous restaurant and oyster bar once located in Cork Street. Since then he has started Lindsay House (now Gauthier Soho), relaunched Bentley’s and opened Corrigan’s Mayfair, as well as Virginia Park Lodge in Co Cavan, in Ireland.

He is in chef’s whites, arms waving, eyes flashing, heels spinning, instructions pouring forth both times I visit. This review has been sort of conducted at one remove by Richard himself — I’ve known him a long time and to know him is to love him — but smiling head chef Simon Merrick, who has been with him for 11 years, will, I am sure, continue immediate, responsive, creative ideas applied to pristine ingredients with results chalked more or less illegibly on a blackboard.

“The red mullet arrived today from Brittany in a state of rigor mortis” announces Richard before describing seasoning involving cumin and coriander seeds. (I get the feeling he is enjoying a culinary freedom that the regular clientele of Bentley’s doesn’t bestow). The flesh of the fish is impeccable, beautiful; the coating perhaps overbearing.

Irish inspiration: spatchcocked partridge and mash with bone marrow crumb 
Matt Writtle

Celeriac root from the farm in Ireland is steamed to exactly the appropriate point of resistance, topped with Alpine Beaufort cheese and then a storm of grated truffle supplied at the table. If on offer, whole chicken baked in a salted dough crust in the wood-fired oven is not to be missed. The method renders the bird exceptionally tender and juicy, its flavour enhanced by a chicken liver and mushroom duxelles stuffed beneath the skin. Cunningly the legs are removed beforehand to be roasted crisply and conventionally.

From the printed menu, playing with the small plates, try crubeen (based on pig’s trotters) with crushed swede and English mustard, milky langoustine and pumpkin bisque studded with the last of the season of sweetcorn, or whipped smoked cod’s roe to spread on the irresistible signature soda bread. Another palpable hit is spatchcocked partridge in potent Mangalitza pork gravy with caramelised apple. Also, mash with bone marrow crumb is pretty much an essential side.

The second evening ends sitting with John Nugent — he of Rotunda and Sea Containers — in a snug in the downstairs bar run by Tony Gibney’s son Cormac listening to a live Irish fiddle band and sipping armagnac. Well, ’tis the season to be jolly.

Fay's Favourites - Irish eyes

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13 Neal’s Yard, WC2H 9DP, homeslicepizza.co.uk

Koya-Soho

John Devitt, once a City trader, finds serenity in udon noodles — as do the customers.

50 Frith Street, W1D 4SQ, koya.co.uk

Darby’s

Robin and Sarah Gill install exuberance and devotion near the new American Embassy.

3 Viaduct Gardens, SW11 7AY, darbys-london.com

Fay Maschler's 50 favourite restaurants in London

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