Duke of Cambridge, SW11

This review was first published in July 2000

A few years back this was a rather gloomy pub waiting for a lifeline to ensure its survival. Then, in 1997, Rupert and Jo Clevely - who also own The Queen's in Primrose Hill and The Builders in Chelsea - took over the place and gave it a facelift.

The carpet went, the bare boards were stripped and polished, the curtains were replaced by louvres and a new kitchen installed. Then the whole place was refurnished and it became the Evening Standard Pub Of The Year in 1998.

A giant parasol covers part of the terrace at the front, from where you walk into a splendid room with plenty of space, newly varnished woodwork, large tables, antique mirrors and cream-painted walls. It's Young's beers, but it's the food for which it has become famous: grilled swordfish with coriander (£9.95), seared, smoked haddock (£9.95) and sesame-coated pork loin (£9.95).