Acton Pole will have you dancing

10 April 2012

Ania Gawel, the young proprietor of Home on Acton High Street, is rather like a Polish Tigger as she bounces around her modern-looking caf?. She is on hand to encourage, or simply talk up the dish of the day:

'If you are hungry, the special is golonka. Pork muscle cooked in beer, then roasted, then served with gravy from the juice, and mashed potato. Best food. Boom.'

Boom doesn't seem an appropriate description until you see the golonka, which turns out to be very boom indeed. It is a daunting sight - an entire pork knuckle. There is an apocryphal principle that you should never eat anything bigger than your head and golonka puts it to the test. The meat is amazingly tender, the gravy sticky and good, and the mashed potatoes a perfect partner.

Home is one of those places that covers all the bases - it is open from about 10am to 9pm, serving double-fried-everything breakfasts, falafel and Middle Eastern dips, fish and chips, roast dinners, pasta, omelettes, burgers, and Polish specialities.

Start with the excellent dips, such as the hummus, or try barszcz czerwony z uskami - rich beetroot soup with Ukrainian dumplings. The Polish main courses are improbably cheap: there's golabki - stuffed cabbage leaves; kielbasa zywiecka - a large, smoky, grilled sausage served with salad and mashed potatoes; or bigos (the famous Polish hunters' stew), which at Home is made using pork and prunes and served with floury boiled potatoes. Or surowa z kapusty kiszonej - coleslaw meets sauerkraut soup.

To drink, there is an impressive range of Polish vodkas and malty Zywiec beer. Setting aside the irrepressible welcome you get from Ania Gawel, the boomiest thing about Home is the pricing.

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