Farce food lacks fibre

10 April 2012

Starting with primordial soup and ending with 'just desserts', Moira Buffini's black comedy is deliciously presented, but may leave you feeling a little bit peckish. It's about an elegant lady of leisure throwing a dinner party to celebrate the publication of a self-help book by her affluent husband, Lars. His friends with broken or breaking marriages pitch up and it looks like we're in for a powerbitching Aga saga - until a Scottish burglar crashes into the wrought iron gates.

Packed with rich language, cynical attitude and citrus-sharp put-downs, Buffini's comedy needs a good old-fashioned Agatha Christie twist. It gets that, but still lacks the strong theme and moral fibre to make it more than just another tart black comedy. When Buffini tries to get heavy late on, there simply aren't enough satirical spuds in the oven.

Directed by Moira's sister Fiona Buffini, Catherine McCormack is under-employed as a cynical news babe, but Adrian Rawlins as her microbiologist spouse defies the corduroy caricature. Nicholas Farrell as Lars is a smugly decent author and Penny Downie is flamboyantly prim as the bohemian artist with a horror of the c-word. Paul Rattray brings Scottish steel to the minimalist

Dinner table and Harriet Walter is the hostess with the mostest, serving quips as spicy as her 'just desserts' are chilled. Patrick Marmion

Until Dec 14, Loft, National Theatre, South Bank SE1, Mon to Sat 8pm, Tue, Thu and Sat mats 3pm, £15 (returns only). Tel: 020 7452 3000.

Tube: Waterloo/Embankment

Dinner

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