A good old lock-in

There are few Gordon Ramsay references from the character whose biggest culinary dilemma is dry-roast or salted.

He certainly doesn't serve short measures. Al Murray has been taking his Pub Landlord's Giving It Both Barrels tour across the country and following a digression inside Hell's Kitchen is now delivering crateloads of foaming laughter to the West End. Clocking in at well over two hours long, last night's gig was more free-flowing than the one I saw in Tunbridge Wells last October.

This is largely due to the fans. The Kent audience was a boozy Saturday crowd too busy bellowing inane interruptions to let Murray's bibulous human bulldog build up a decent head of steam. This Sunday residency attracts a following that grasps the grammar of comedy banter and also wants to avoid a Monday hangover.

There are few Gordon Ramsay references from the character whose biggest culinary dilemma is dry-roast or salted. The strutting publican still spends the first half ribbing punters with semiprepared put-downs and satirical bigotry.

Australians are always descended from convicts, greeted with a hearty "welcome back". If it wasn't for our brave boys, "We'd all be speaking Iraqi".

The post-interval rant is more rigorously scriptbased, as he produces a globe and proceeds to mock everywhere but Albion. Denmark once pillaged and now produces Lego, India has become one giant call centre.

The climax is a rabblerousing Proms parody, but instead of Elgar the room unites in a chorus of that paean to arachnid spunk, Incy Wincy Spider.

Crisper topical asides would add sharper thrust to a highly enjoyable lock-in that flutters over familiar themes. He cannily incorporates a Jonny Wilkinson gag and a St George's Flag hankie to mop his brow, but David Beckham's penalty-taking ought to be addressed. If wine bars give the Landlord nightmares, crossbars probably do the same for the England captain.

Also on 4 and 18 July. Information: 020 7494 5080.

Al Murray - The Pub Landlord

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